Yves Saint Laurent, photographed by Jeanloup Sieff, 1971 (Nast 2011)
Yves Saint Laurent, or Yves Henri Donat Matthieu Saint Laurent (huh!), was one of the most influential European fashion designers, starting from the 1960s to the present day. His early years weren't easy, as he was constantly bullied at school for appearing homosexual. In consequence, he was a nervous and weakly child, understood by nobody.
He found solace in the world of fashion, in drawing, designing dresses for his mother and sisters, until his mother took him to Paris for a meeting she'd arranged with Michael de Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue. A year later, he moved to Paris and enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, where his designs quickly stood out. He then was introduced to Christian Dior, a giant in the fashion world. Under Dior's tutelage, Saint Laurent's style continued to mature and gain still more notice.
Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent stripped off to become the face of the first YSL eau de toilette for men, Pour Homme, in 1971. He was photographed by Jeanloup Sieff. (All about Yves: Inside an Unmissable fashion film)
In 1960 YSL had to go back to his home country, Algeria, to fight for its independence. He got an exemption based on precarious health status though, but when he came back to Paris, he was ousted from the House of Dior. The news were devastating for the young designer but soon he recovered and sued Dior for breach of contract, collecting 48,000 pounds, and with help from his lover, Pierre Berge, he opened his own fashion house. The rise of pop culture and a general appreciation for the original, fresh designs, Saint Laurent gained even more recognition.
(Yves saint Laurent changes name to ‘Saint Laurent Paris’ no date)
Over the next two decades, Saint Laurent's designs sat atop the fashion world. His signature pieces were revolutionary and a breath of fresh air in fashion. By the 1980s, YSL was a true icon. Berge continue to manage YSL 's firm even though they have broken up, the fashion house was blooming as a money making machine.
But the fame didn't bring him only happiness. He was struggling, and he became solitary and addicted to alcohol and cocaine. His vision was altered and he lost many of his admirers who now were criticising him as being obsolete in style.
In the early 1990s he started to recover and his designs were rediscovered by a fashion elite tired of the grunge movement that dominated the runways. By the end of the decade though, Saint Laurent and Berger sold the company. In January 2002, Saint Laurent participated in his final show and then retired. 6 years later, he passed away. (Biography.com Editors)
(On this day in fashion 2010)
One of the best creations of YSL was the “Mondrian” Dress, inspired by the work of Dutch painter Piet Mondrian. The Yves Saint Laurent dress launched in 1965 and is definitely one of the most iconic dresses of all time, both for transforming art into fashion and for starting the color block trend, which nowadays is making a comeback! (Most Iconic dresses | most famous dresses 2016)
(Most Iconic dresses | most famous dresses 2016)
Just look how perfect that dress is!
Although Christian Dior's ultra-feminine silhouettes from the 1950s, and the hyper exoticism of Paul Poiret from the 1910s inspired YSL, one of his biggest muses was Coco Chanel. "Chanel affected not only Saint Laurent’s aesthetic, but his entire approach to fashion. He felt by 1970 that Dior’s tradition of unveiling a new silhouette with each collection was out of date. In Saint Laurent’s own words: “Now it is ridiculous to think that clothes must change, that hemlines must change, that women want pants this season and not the next.” In contrast, Chanel’s interest in creating a fashionable uniform or “style” inspired Saint Laurent to search for a “uniform” of his own. As reporters Claude de Leusse and Patricia McColl recounted in Women’s Wear Daily in 1970, “[Saint Laurent] says he’d be perfectly happy to see every woman in the world in the same dress. ‘A uniform for day and a uniform for night.’… It is in essence, the Chanel approach to fashion… Evolution rather than revolution.”"(Nast 2011)
Jean-Luce Hure, photograph of Yves Saint Laurent and models wearing his designs in Paris that appeared on the front page of Women’s Wear Daily, April 24, 1972.(Nast 2011)
In 1972, the picture above appeared on the front page of Women’s Wear Daily. It shows Saint Laurent strutting down the street surrounded by models in his latest designs. Underneath the photograph, de Leusse and McColl declared, “Yves St. Laurent continues the spirit of Coco Chanel. His clothes for the Rive Gauche fall/winter collection are as relaxed and easy as Chanel’s were. But the look is pure Yves.”(Nast 2011)
Helmut Newton, photographs of a model wearing Yves Saint Laurent, Vogue, August 1, 1973, Newton / Vogue; © Condé Nast (Nast 2011)
"On the opposite page the same model appears in a similarly styled ensemble consisting of a long knit sweater worn over a high-neckline dress, punctuated by a bow at the base of the neck. The model’s angular, cropped bob completes both looks, and seemingly transforms her into a clone of Chanel herself.
Beyond the examples discussed here, Chanel’s influence on Saint Laurent can be felt throughout his work, from his le smoking tuxedos to his exotic evening pajamas. Chanel’s dedication to creating streamlined, androgynous, and modern garments for women with an active lifestyle inspired Saint Laurent to transform the fashionable wardrobe in the 1970s, and the effects of his developments can still be seen today."(Nast 2011)
(Terms 2016)
But what about Yves Saint Laurent as a cosmetics brand?
"Yves Saint Laurent Beauté also has a notable presence in the luxury beauty market, although this is run independently through L'Oreal Paris that licenses the name."(Yves saint Laurent (brand) Wikipedia 2016)
"Fragrance: the Yves Saint Laurent history of fragrances is punctuated by successes. Ever since the 1964 creation of « Y », more than 50 years ago, YSL Beauté has produced true olfactory sociological markers. A societal dimension perfectly illustrated by the image of Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent posing nude for the launch of his first men's fragrance, Pour Homme, in 1971. Today, many fragrances of the brand have become must-have references both for men, with L'Homme, La Nuit de l'Homme and women, with Opium, Black Opium, Manifesto and Paris.
Makeup offers the highest technology at the heart of a precious case, under the inspiration of Lloyd Simmonds, Creative Director Makeup. The YSL Beauté makeup icons include Touche Éclat, Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils, Rouge Pur Couture and Rouge Pur Couture Vernis à Lèvres glossy stain . All hold leading positions in the market of main countries where the brand is marketed.
Skincare unites the most cutting-edge technology with glamour and an ultimate sensorial experience. Forever Youth Liberator and Forever Light Creator skincare lines, based on glycobiology, have enabled the brand to take a position in the countries where they have been launched. Top Secrets, a pioneering skincare range for makeup lovers that presents a simple beauty equation: skincare plus makeup equals a multitasking hybrid of pre and post-makeup solutions for all complexions. The skincare branch of the brand is today conquering the premium skincare territory with its Or Rouge collection that brings together the Glycobiology science and a precious ingredient containing a high concentration of glycans, the pistil of Saffron." (Yves saint Laurent beauty: Perfume, makeup, skincare - L’Oréal group 2015)
So YSL Beaute is owned by L'oreal, which, to be honest, I don't really like. But the "brain" of their make-up designs and sometimes, even of their new products is Lloyd Simmonds with, as far as I've researched, Isamaya Ffrench being the UK make-up ambassador. Other top make-up artists such as PatMcgrath also collaborate with the YSL Beaute make-up team.
To understand better YSL Beaute as a cosmetics brand and also to understand their vision, I think it's crucial to know about the team of brilliant make-up artists behind. I've mentioned Lloyd Simmonds earlier as being the make-up Creative Director and Isamaya Ffrench the UK make-up Ambassador. Well let's get to know their vision about the brand that they represent!
Love this picture! I want to do one in the exact same style one day! (Lloyd Simmonds - Niven 2011)
"LLOYD SIMMONDS was appointed Yves Saint Laurent's international make-up artist in 2010, and has created stand-out products including YSL's Shocking Mascara and six additional shades of the famous Touche Eclat Complexion Highlighter Pen. He talks to us about what's next for YSL beauty.
Who is the YSL woman?
I think it's the girls who walked the runways way back - the great ladies of the past. They were sexy, but strong and in control. Nowadays it's a modern woman who breaks the rules. For example at the spring/summer 2012 show it was a classic glamorous look but then the eye make-up Pat McGrath made it a little harder - giving it a street edge instead of a beauty edge.
What inspires you?
I'm pretty open to what's around. One of the palettes we did for spring was influenced by a flower I saw in a florist's window, but then on other occasions I'll be inspired by street lights in the rain, oil, asphalt. A lot of the products I'll do will be black but with a colour behind it.
The spring looks are influenced by a candy store I walked past in Paris, where all the sweets were displayed in glass jars - it was so appetising. And that's what I wanted to create for spring - a real sugar rush. It was drama for autumn and now it's much softer, sheerer and prettier for spring.
What do you want to achieve at YSL?
I really want the beauty offering to be coherent - respecting the past whilst moving forward, and breaking a few rules along the way. I've changed a lot of the textures to make them more modern and performance-based, as with our gel blushes. I've tried to keep the glamour high but with more choice. Rather than one red lipstick I've created five. So if you love your strong red lips there's something for you, whilst in the spring range I've created an almost transparent, sheer red that's great for beginners.
So you want to make YSL relevant to more people?
Yes, it's a message of empowerment - giving choice to the woman. These days I think women need armour to navigate this world, and make-up provides that armour. Maybe you're seducing, maybe you're just doing it for yourself - but the aim is to teach women some tricks so they can have fun with make-up."(Niven 2011)
Here's some of Simmonds work for YSL:
I love the fact that he's still classic, very Yves in style, but with a modern and graphic touch! Ah he said, he's " respecting the past whilst moving forward, and breaking a few rules along the way" (Simmonds) which I find absolutely inspiring.
What about the UK YSL Make-up Ambassador, Isamaya Ffrench? Well, I personally adore her. She's such a stunning artist and I wish one day I could met her or that she will do masterclasses, because I NEED TO GO.
"Who Is Isamaya Ffrench?
Isamaya Ffrench (Niven 2015)
Last month, YSL Beauté appointed Isamaya Ffrench as its new UK make-up ambassador. Well known in the beauty community and boasting an impressive Instagram following of ardent make-up fanatics, Ffrench has bagged this top role at the age of just 25 - so what makes her so special?
Specialising in 3D design at Chelsea College of Arts, Ffrench went on to study Product and Industrial Design at Central Saint Martins as well as joining the Theo Adams Company; a London-based collective of artists, dancers, musicians, actors and singers. Pairing that with a weekend job of children's face painting, she soon realised her love for - in her words - "telling stories" through people's faces, and a make-up artistry career was born. Often trying out her most experimental looks on herself, she isn't afraid to try out a bold colour or an unconventional technique. Here, Isamaya gives us an insight into her world, and what we can expect from her at YSL Beauté." (Niven 2015)
Here's more of Ffrench's work:
If that didn't convince you enough that Ffrench is absolutely amazing then... I don't know what else is amazing for you. Thruth is, I'm ultra-inspired by her edgyness and freshness and everything about her make-up looks.
How can I not love YSL Beaute then?! How?!
References:
- Nast, C. (2011) Yves saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the 70s Blog. Available at: http://exhibitions.fitnyc.edu/blog-ysl-halston/ (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- Biography. com Editors (no date) Yves Saint Laurent Biography. Available at: http://www.biography.com/people/yves-saint-laurent-9469669#later-years (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- Most Iconic dresses | most famous dresses (2016) Available at: http://www.becomegorgeous.com/fashion-style/celebrity_style/most-iconic-dresses-of-all-time-A12956 (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- On this day in fashion (2010) Available at: http://onthisdayinfashion.com/?tag=yves-saint-laurent (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- Yves saint Laurent changes name to ‘Saint Laurent Paris’ (no date) Available at: http://www.creativeboysclub.com/yves-saint-laurent-changes-name-to-saint-laurent-paris (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- All about Yves: Inside an Unmissable fashion film (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2014/03/14/yves-saint-laurent-film-review--interviews-pierre-niney (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- Terms, P.I. (2016) Yves saint Laurent. Available at: https://prezi.com/gr97rvn0nkx0/yves-saint-laurent/ (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- Yves saint Laurent (brand) (2016) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand) (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- Yves saint Laurent beauty: Perfume, makeup, skincare - L’Oréal group (2015) Available at: http://www.loreal.com/brand/l%E2%80%99or%C3%A9al-luxe/yves-saint-laurent-beaut%C3%A9 (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- Niven, L. (2015) Who is Isamaya Ffrench? Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/08/11/who-is-isamaya-ffrench-ysl-beaute-uk-makeup-ambassador (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- Niven, L. (2011) Lloyd Simmonds. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2011/11/14/lloyd-simmonds-ysl-beauty (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- Isamaya Ffrench on YSL’s Touche Éclat from vogue video on Vimeo (no date) Available at: https://player.vimeo.com/video/135875044 (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
- Lipstick, E. (2014) MUA Isamaya Ffrench for i-d magazine winter 2014 by Richard Burbridge. Available at: http://www.eyeshadowlipstick.com/27774/mua-isamaya-ffrench-d-magazine-winter-2014-richard-burbridge/ (Accessed: 12 February 2016).
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